Explore the wonderful Wairarapa region

Martinborough local Sara Bunny shares her top picks for sipping wine, stretching the legs and stellar stargazing in Wairarapa. 

Tucked away behind the dramatic Remutaka Range, you’ll find a spot that’s relaxed enough to count Crocs as suitable attire for any occasion, but proud enough to pump out some of the country’s best food and wine. A tenacious little blip of a region where the ink-black skies are world renowned for top-notch stargazing, where having no traffic lights is a serious point of pride, where the Golden Shears sheep-shearing contest once put the place on the map. 

Like Wellington’s quietly self-assured little sister, Wairarapa is an area that was under the radar for a while. But nowadays, visitors from across the country have cottoned on to its many charms.  

Unless you’re a high-roller with a helicopter, one of the main roads into town is over the winding Remutaka Range. Known simply as ‘the hill’ to locals, it can feel like you’re in a pretentious car ad or on a slightly unhinged racetrack, depending on traffic levels and general vibes. A constant hot topic on the community Facebook pages and part of the Wairarapa psyche, ‘the hill’ is the geographical and psychological gateway to the region. Arriving this way is part of the true Wairarapa experience. Shed your big-city worries (and hopefully not your stomach contents) as each hairpin bend puts the capital further behind you. If you’ve ventured this far – about 90 minutes’ drive from Wellington – you’re in for a warm welcome. 

World-class wine and fantastic food  

Much has already been written about Martinborough, the tiny town (we’re talking less than 2,000 residents) that turns heads internationally for top-tier wine. Here, it’s not just about crowd-pleasing zingy savs or blush-pink brunch favourite, rosé. Local winemakers are getting experimental with low-intervention drops and delish riesling, while the dry climate and face-stinging frosts create the ideal growing conditions for the notoriously finicky, delicately thin-skinned pinot noir varieties. 

With 20-odd wineries all a stone’s throw from each other, Martinborough is a popular choice for hens dos (giggling groups in tiaras and sashes are a common sight in wedding season), romantic getaways and family gatherings. You can hire some wheels and join the tandem bicycle brigade, but most places are easily accessible on foot if pedal-pushing isn’t your jam. 

Top spots for food and drink include Palliser Estate, where a new chef is earning rave reviews; Nga Waka, boasting quite possibly the best pizza in town; Cambridge Road Winery for classic and slightly more offbeat drops; Ata Rangi for incredible wines that will impress even the pickiest palette; Moy Hall, a local lunch favourite; and The Runholder, where the stylish dining room and fancy sharing plates are perfect for a special occasion. 

New in town is Rabbit by Coney, a relaxed outdoor wine bar off the main vineyard strip that feels like you’re in your own private garden, and special mention has to go to local distillery Reid + Reid, where you can enjoy top-notch gin on the sun-drenched lawn out the back.  

For breakfast, try Nara at Martinborough Memorial Square, or if you’re going to Greytown, head to Stable (only open on weekends), a new spot just out of town which offers a cabinet groaning with doughnuts, cakes, cream buns and other sweet delights, plus great coffee to match. 

Stellar stargazing  

After a day of looking into a wine glass, spend the night looking up at the sky. This tiny region is globally recognised as an International Dark Sky Reserve, the second in New Zealand after Aoraki Mackenzie in the south, and one of just 27 in the world. 

The stars are one thing, but on a clear night out here you might also be treated to what looks like swathes of glittering icing sugar scattered against the darkness. That’s the Magellanic Clouds, tiny galaxies inside our Milky Way that are most visible in winter, and Wairarapa is one of the best places on Earth to see the stellar display. Take it all in with expert guidance and the use of a powerful telescope at Star Safari near Martinborough, or book a stargazing expert to come to you through astronomy tour group Under the Stars. 

Get active in the hills  

Looking for something less nocturnal? Hop on a bike or e-bike and check out the Remutaka Rail Trail, part of the popular Remutaka Cycle Trail. This all-ages track takes you through abandoned rail tunnels and across a suspension bridge, and you can book through Martinborough’s Green Jersey Tours. 

If that’s all too strenuous, round off a morning of sauntering around the shops in Greytown and Martinborough with a scenic drive out to the rugged south coast. While you’re there, scoff down some of the region’s best fish and chips at the Lake Ferry Hotel. 

Or head north from Greytown along State Highway 2 to Masterton. Here you can check out the excellent art gallery Aratoi, or blow out the cobwebs on one of the many short walks at the foot of the Tararua Range – the Gentle Annie Loop Track is well worth it for panoramic mountain views without too much puffing required.  

Tuckered out? That’s only scratching the surface. Whether it’s winter or spring, wine-soaked or something more salubrious, this little region is looking up. And here, you can be as laid back as you want to be: Crocs are always welcome.