Hawke’s Bay hotspots for wining and dining

Writer Fiona Fraser shares her top picks for food, fashion and festivals in Hawke’s Bay, and marvels at how the region is slowly but surely recovering after Cyclone Gabrielle. 

For a long time, if you told someone you lived in Hawke’s Bay, their brow would immediately furrow in concern. “Were you affected by the floods?” they’d ask. And while, for me, the answer would be, “We were very fortunate”, my response also masked the truth. Yes, our home, which sits pretty on top of a hill, was spared. But the impacts of Cyclone Gabrielle were felt by everyone, and our tourism economy took one of the greatest hits. 

Almost 3 years have passed since the disaster, and we’ve weathered the long, grim and uncertain months that followed. But with any great defeat, there is the anticipated rebound. It simply can’t be overstated how incredible it is to see our streets packed, restaurants humming, visitors smiling over glasses of local syrah.

Downtown Hastings 

Hastings, once painted as a somewhat soulless regional centre, is at the very heart of it all. A wander down Heretaunga Street now puts you at the front step of some of the province’s best spots, from a slab of excellent pizza romana at Bambina, to a plate of oysters and glass of champagne at Cellar 495. 

Newcomer Restaurant Ari is just around the corner on Karamu Road; a simple but comfortable fit-out belies the extraordinary depth of flavour arriving on plates from a bustling kitchen just visible behind the bar. Sourdough flatbread drenched in pumpkin molasses and the brown butter made famous by Ari’s sister business, Oak Estate, is an unexpected highlight, as is the tender venison served with beetroot, and a refreshing caraway seed crème fraîche that cuts through the richness. The cocktails are wonderful and the wine list offers lesser-known drops from the region and further afield. It’s the latest must-do and worth booking. 

Continue around the corner onto Eastbourne Street to discover Rosina, a daytime cafe led by Jesse Neilson, who arrived after the cyclone to help his parents rebuild their home and their lives. As luck would have it, the character space Rosina now inhabits became available and Jesse jumped, deciding to swap the bright lights of Auckland with the slower pace of central Hastings. The cornerstone of Rosina is its menu: house-made sandwiches, familiar faves like mince on toast, and their wonderful crumpets. Plus, top-notch coffee to wash it down with. 

Complete your spin around the block and you’ll find Cedric’s, a hole-in-the-wall speakeasy-style bar attached to Toitoi, the Hawke’s Bay opera house and events centre. Named after Cedric Wright, the much-loved opera house caretaker for too many years to count, it offers theatrical cocktails curated by the team at nearby Hastings Distillers, and a selection of vinyl played the old-fashioned way (side A followed by side B!). 

Then there’s the shopping. Bold homewares at Kindred Road, pencils and paintbrushes at Humanity Books & Art Supplies, and fashion, too, with locally-owned clothing brand TAIEA. Their pieces – luxe essentials crafted from silks, cottons and recycled fibres, for men and women and promising inclusive sizing – are both stunning and uniquely Māori. 

Wine and dine 

No visit to Hawke’s Bay is complete without a visit to Craggy Range winery and restaurant, about 15 minutes from central Hastings on the banks of the Tukituki River. The quiet post-cyclone times created opportunities for this multi-award winning restaurant, and the kitchen team, led by chef Casey McDonald, began a series of set menu lunches when business was slower and visitors scant. It was a wonderful boon for the locals, who flocked in to sample everything from French bistro fare to a full New York-style midwinter Christmas dinner. 

Now, the themed menu idea has grown wings and Craggy Range has opened its incredible second space, The Loft, on the mezzanine of the main restaurant. Designed by RTA Studio, the room is intimate and elegant, with an open-fronted servery area that makes the food the main event. When we visit, we experience a multi-course meal of duck – inventive dishes that use the protein in mind-bending but thoroughly delicious ways (duck fat caramel, anyone?). The welcoming crew and premium wines make for a really special environment, and with a menu that promises to change regularly (all dietaries can be catered for from the main restaurant downstairs, too), it’s a treat for the senses. 

But Craggy’s not the only game in town when it comes to wine. This summer sees the welcome arrival of Swift Wines’ cellar door. Winemaker Lauren Swift has decked out her space in hot pink, leopard print and bright green (trust me, it just works) and is crafting fresh and fabulous modern wines, including a just-released sparkling Albariño (named Pipi after one of her trio of sausage dogs). It’s already a cult classic 

Shed 530 Estate is a rural revival of the very best kind: a relaxed food and wine affair in Puketapu, where the cyclone hit hard. It has also brought bottomless brunches to Hawke’s Bay, but be careful, it’s a curly drive back to town afterwards. 

Something for everyone 

In Napier, where Art Deco architecture meets a glittering seaside promenade, Central Fire Station Bistro has undergone a pivot, opening Baked by CFS in a small adjoining space. Waistlines beware: the pastry coming out of this place is unrivalled, from goat cheese tarts to crispy choux buns filled with rhubarb and their famous-in-the-Bay brown butter custard cruffin. Take your plate into the restaurant next door, grab a velvet banquette and enjoy the deco vibes. 

And then there are the festivals. Events took a tumble post-Covid, but boy, are they back! From the Hastings Meatball Festival to Central Hawke’s Bay’s annual Spring Fling, to Toitū Te Reo, which celebrates the Māori language, there’s an event for everyone. Napier’s Art Deco Festival is always a huge hit, and more recently, Nuit Blanche – Art After Dark has enticed thousands of families to enjoy the CBD after dark, with street performers, food trucks and a dazzling light show. 

So, were we affected by the floods? Of course. We all were. Some are still struggling as they process loss of life and livelihood. But the door is open and the welcome mat is out. Hawke’s Bay is ready to see you again.

Best stays in the Bay 

1. Mangaone Cliffs is a luxury lodge sleeping up to 8, with intoxicating views over the hills outside Napier. After a day exploring Hawke’s Bay, or out hunting with co-owner Dave McCurdy, take a soak with a friend in the twin outdoor bathtubs. 
2. Kōtare Estate, in a wonderful Spanish Mission home high above Havelock North, offers accommodation and optional catering. Book their private cave space for an unbeatable dinner experience. 
3. Bring your dog to the Scenic Hotel Te Pania, right on Napier’s Marine Parade. This mid-range hotel has rooms for your furry friends. 
4. Lawn Road Retreat is the ideal venue for a group holiday, large wedding party or family reunion, and now offers guided e-biking trips.  
5. Motel accommodation but make it cute! The Mayfair is reminiscent of Miami, with its coral pink exterior, sunny yellow and sage green accents, plus it has a sauna and a pool.